Step by step: glue wooden or MDF plinths

Step by step: glue wooden or MDF plinths

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Glue, nail, screw, clip? We could ask ourselves the question of the interest of gluing rather than nailing or screwing plinths. If the screwing remains the champion of solidity, its implementation is more delicate. Clipping remains a screwing operation and requires more expensive supplies in addition to considerably extending the exposure time. Nailing requires dexterity so as not to damage the baseboards and often requires inserting small wooden battens into the wall to ensure a more solid fixing of the baseboards. There remains the collage which is not without advantages as we will see. If gluing does not allow disassembly, gluing is faster than nailing or screwing, because today's glues allow to install a length of plinth in a few seconds. Glues are also very effective and make bonding very resistant. The argument of the higher price of glue tends to disappear, since a cartridge of glue today costs less than 10 euros, while the hardware, it continues to increase. A final reason, it is not necessary to conceal the screw heads with a wood pulp. For all these reasons and for all those which are not mentioned, collage has interesting properties in more than one way. Now let's see the list of equipment necessary for our needs.
Difficulty : easy Cost : 1st price (excluding painting) of around 2 € / meter (glue + baseboards) Tools required : - A set of wooden plinths (pine or fir) or MDF - A back saw and a special plinth miter box (larger) - Glue cartridges for wooden plinths, and an acrylic sealant cartridge - A gun cartridge - Sandpaper - A clamp - A meter, a pencil, paper

Step 1: I measure to buy the right amount of baseboards

The first step is to measure. You must measure each portion of wall that will receive a plinth. Do not make this calculation with a ladle, this will avoid you going back to look for more baseboards for lack of correct forecasts. Provide a small surplus of 10% minimum if you are not comfortable with cutting wood.

Step 2: I paint my baseboards before putting them down

If your baseboards need to be painted, this is the time before you start laying. It will always be possible to touch up afterwards. Doing it before allows you to work at a good height, to see more clearly and to avoid overflows on the floor and walls.

Step 3: I cut the baseboards with the miter box

Before cutting the plinths, the correct approach is to draw the angles of the cutouts, using a line, on the previous dimension diagram. This facilitates understanding and mental representation when cutting, otherwise "burrs" are not uncommon.
The use and purchase of more expensive equipment is not necessary if you do not plan to repeat this operation for a long time. We could mention among others, the radial or miter saw, but also the circular saw, even a router with a 45 ° conical cutter. For our business, we will only need to equip ourselves with what is called a miter box, sold with its back saw. These boxes simply serve as guides for the saw to make straight cuts or with predefined angles. A word on plastic miter boxes. Cheaper than wooden miter boxes, they are also less precise and wear out faster. But above all, they have the very unpleasant feature of emitting a shrill cry when the saw rubs the plastic, know this, and provide earplugs if you use this material. Remember to wedge the blade using the small eccentric shims provided for this purpose. Not all miter boxes have them, but their presence eliminates the need to use the clamp for short lengths.
It is preferable to make the bias cuts (for the angles) by positioning the plinth side facing on top (side which will be visible) in the miter box, to avoid splinters on the visible side of the plinth. This is not always possible depending on the space available in the room.
Deburr the cuts with a piece of sandpaper in order to have perfect junctions between the plinths.

Step 4: I glue the backs of the baseboards then I fix them on the wall

As much as possible, use a standard adhesive for baseboards specific to the support. Bonding with double-sided tape or using neoprene gel glue does not allow the plinth to be repositioned in the event of installation errors. In addition, the thickness of the tape or the glue is not sufficient to absorb the irregularities of the walls. This results in a significant loss of contact points, therefore of adhesion, hence a fragility of the bonding and risks of detachment in the more or less long term. Use these only if your walls are perfectly flat.
Place a coil of glue on the back of the plinth. In case of strong irregularities in the wall, opt instead for glue dots spaced about fifteen centimeters. This will allow to have good anchors at the glued places.
Place the plinth and press firmly. Ten seconds is enough, and you can release. If the plinth does not stick along the wall because it is not straight, it will be necessary to advise depending on the extent of the gap found. If it is weak, you can recap it with acrylic putty, if it is important it will be necessary to try to constrain the plinth with a heavy load to keep it pressed. In the latter case, the drying time for the plinth will be much longer before removing the holding charges.

Step 5: Inward and outward angles

There is no difficulty properly speaking for the angles. All convex or concave right angles require a 45 ° cut. It is only the direction of the cut that changes depending on the angle, whether it is outgoing or entering.
You may have to make small cuts because of a door or pipe threshold. Use your clamp to hold the piece. For circular cuts, the jigsaw can be used, if not, a round or half-round wood grater can be of service to you.
I always check the assembly before gluing the pieces. To avoid unnecessary waste and unnecessary work, such as cutting a corner, I'm always looking for where I could use the rest of my previous fall.
If the wall deviates slightly, do not try to constrain the plinth, the effort would be too great and you would have trouble sticking it. A junction is necessary, either by abutting two pieces whose ends are cut at 45 ° and glued together, or, as in the example above, using the two ends of two plinths, the groove of one and the tongue of the other, which is also found in the form of an inward V or an outgoing V.

Step 6: I hide the imperfections

And here is the moment for the intervention of the acrylic sealant. Without making its apology, we will say that the putty is essentially used to make junctions between carpentry and masonry, to seal cracks, to take up imperfections, that it smoothes easily, cleans with water and paints very easily. Lots of advantages for a single product, and we will not deprive ourselves of it.
It is very easy to fill an unsightly space between the top of the baseboard and the wall. To refine an angle whose cut would leave something to be desired. Just place a small sausage, smooth with your finger, and wipe off the residual traces with a sponge.
The acrylic putty has passed through here, the brush will pass through there. A healthy brushstroke in strategic places to finish our work of the day. And now, it's over !